Uv Heat Lamp Reptile - Reptile Supplies


Help with the reptile lamp that gives off heat and light?

I have an adult female Red Eared Slider. I didn't know that they needed that special lamp ( i think its called a uv ray lamp) until recently. I bought a 50 watt one and I placed my turtle under it. She stayed for 2 seconds and rushed back into the water. Is this normal? Was the lamp to close and hot for her?
This is also the first time she has been under one.


A uvb light is ABSOLUTLY NECESSARY!!! Turtles will get metabolic bone disease if they do not have proper UVB lighting. The reptisun 5.0 and 10.0 is great. Uvb bulbs range from around $20-$40 depending on what brand and where you buy it. It puts of light as well as UVB rays, and some heat. Do an online picture search of Metabolic Bone Disease; and see for yourself the damage that this can do to turtles, iguanas, and other reptiles that require this. The UVB light puts off some heat; but you will most likely need another heat source. NEVER EVER EVER EVER....... EVER use a heat rock!!!!!!!!! for ANY reptile. It can burn a turtle as well as anybody else. I have seen thurmal burns on the feet of turtles and it is NOT PRETTY! you can pick up a daytime heat lamp at petco for $8.99, or, since you need the UVB, that will put off plenty of light; so you can get a nighttime heat lamp that doesnt put off any light. Those are the same price. about $8.99 at petco.

She will bask when she wants to; all reptiles are like that. Some only bask when they need to digest their food. Give her a heat lamp and UVB lamp, and she will bask when needed, it will give her enough heat. Put the heat lamp on one side of the habitat so that she has a basking side, and a cooler side.
good luck



Caring for Frogs & Reptiles : Iguana Cage Design

Design an iguana cage in an aquarium with a full-spectrum UV source and heat lamps, but keep in mind how fast iguanas grow and that they require ...

Jeweled Lacerta Breeding

Bert Langerwerf (2001) had lizards beget up to four clutches in a season, but two or three is the average. Nesting sites throughout the restrain will be used. In our outdoor enclosures, the two, 4-inch ABS tubes per in going behind the retaining wall are filled with a vermiculite, sand and coconut coir amalgam, and they are usually used by our lizards as the nest sites. It is eminent to keep the substrate properly hydrated to ensure that the eggs, once laid, do not become dehydrated. We add open-handedly to the substrate until it barely holds together and add water as necessary during incubation. We try to assassinate our lizard eggs as soon as possible to incubate them in a substrate of either vermiculite or perlite in an incubator. There, we have crap-shooter control over moisture and temperature. If using vermiculite, we do a 1:1 by burden ratio. For perlite, we just use the ready-made mix put out by Hatch Ceremony. According to Bert Langerwerf, incubation lasts between 80 to 90 days at temperatures between 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit.